The Crab
Murky sea water lashes around my feet and I catch a glimpse of something unsual, bending down I see a crab and I call out. I jump onto sand trying to get the little blue bucket before the sea carries the crab away, as I turn DH has picked up the crab in his fingers and I wonder if he knows what I know about our discovery. He panics and drops it into the bucket and I ask him;
“Did it hurt you?”
“Its pincers were moving towards me…” he says brushing his hands on his shorts,
“It’s dead darling. It’s dead”.
“Ah”.
The boy who today calls himself Watermelon Scraper takes the crab and starts to study it. After a while I ask him what he has figured out about the crab, he tells me he knows where it mouth is, talks about its pincers and how the crab uses them to eat. He traces a line from the mouth from where he thinks it is digested. The crab is taken to the wall, where he beats it and throws it into submission, its contents revealed. He lays the limbs out with the body after the dissection, satisfied with his findings.
The Gecko
Geckos are ubiquitous here. They typically vary in size from 4-10cm and have fine hairs on their hands and feet that are able to pick up the most minor of irregularities in surfaces, and are therefore able to walk on glass. Here is a gecko on our hammock:
The Elephants
We decided to go on a trip to see the elephants and the crocodiles/cobra show. I felt a lot of trepidation about it, because normally I do not like to see animals in captivity, particularly if they are not treated well but here in Thailand there are places which conserve animals and places which profit from them. Unfortunately we chose a place of the later. We took a taxi to the Hua Hin safari park and arrived 5 minutes before the show was due to start. The children were all very excited, especially after seeing the parrot and monkey when we walked inside. The price was extortionate – the equivalent of £80 british pounds (4,400 baht)! I don’t think we have ever spent as much on a morning out, and I hope we never again do). I would not have minded spending so much if the animals and staff were all cared for to a high level, but I regret I think this is not the case.
We rushed through to the show but before we went into the show, a man tried to force me to sit (WITHOUT TROUSERS!!! I was wearing a knee length dress) on the baby elephants back. He was very insistent and was trying to push me onto the elephant and I kept repeating no no no – I did not want to sit on the elephant with my little girl. After a few minutes he eventually left me alone, but as I turned I saw that our 6 yo had been made to sit on the elephant, I choked back tears as I saw him being carried off crying himself on the elephants back. I felt helpless as I was holding one of our toddlers, DH was made to sit on one with a toddler and he said he was struggling to hold on himself with her – I was caught between trying to help him and help our son. I got our son off, and he said he was okay – and then I turn around and the keepers are forcefully trying to get tips! I was quite annoyed after how much it cost to come in, after all that is 2-3 days budget for a family of five. My husband gave them 100 baht (£2) and then they tried to get him to give more money to the other elephant via its trunk, he said no. Now I realise that the reason they were so forceful is because they think it would get them more tips, like our dignity and choice is second place to profit – now I can empathise with the elephants.
I felt uncomfortable throughout the show – seeing these magnificent, majestic beings made to do all sorts of ridiculous stunts, it just demeaned them somehow.
The elephants rode bikes, burst balloons, painted pictures, played football, gave massages and danced and in between the crowd fed the elephants (100baht a bunch of bananas that usually costs a fifth of the price). At the end the elephants came around to the front of the seating area with baskets in their mouth with the keepers asking for tips. After spending 200baht on bananas we regret that we did not tip, I could see the frustration on the keepers face – and if we had been charged a fair price for entry and bananas, then I would very happily have tipped all the staff but we just don’t have that kind of financial freedom.
We then went on to the crocodile and cobra show, and watched the snake trainer as the spitting cobras hissed and spat venom at him – quite uncomfortable viewing. He would wipe the venom off his face in between tormenting the snakes – bearing in mind this would make him blind if it entered his eye. He also showed the crowd a copper head razor and some other large and quick snakes I do not know the name of. At the end one of the snakes bit his lips as he put it into his mouth, his lip bled during the last part of his act. Again we were asked to give more tips.
Two men came out for the crocodile show – they somehow hypnotised the crocodiles to keep their mouths open as they inserted their hands and heads inside. After they had finished we were asked again to give more money, we again shamefully declined. We asked the show speaker if they had ever been bitten and she said yes of course, these were wild animals. I knew she was telling the truth as I could see the scars on the man’s arm while he performed. One had even had their head trapped I think – they only way to get them to open their mouth again is to tempt them with “real” food.
Finally, we went on the elephant ride. I felt sad about this but it was basically next to free as included in the package and I have never tried it before. I’ll be honest – I found it quite scary! We were quite high up and I was trying to ensure my children were safe. The guides told us that they came from northern Thailand and had ridden elephants since childhood. Near the end, my elephant guide turned to me with a box of jewellery, he seemed uncomfortable but tried to sell me some, I have no money, I don’t carry it and I told him so as he slowly put the box away. I looked ahead and saw that all the guides were trying to sell their passengers jewellery – it was part of the experience. After 25 minutes we crawled off the elephants, I had found it quite uncomfortable and was glad to have my feet on solid ground, but at least the children were happy. We washed up and started our journey back to Cha Am.
As we were leaving, the boy in our life who today would like to be refered to as Watermelon Scraper said that he would rather that they were trapped any other way than being chained by their feet – which is how they all stood whilst not being used. I would have prefered just to see them wondering in a more natural environment, doing nothing anything than happily being elephants. That is after all what a safari should be?
I reflected in the car that all the tips and the jewellery selling must be a commission for the staff, and that made me feel sad. I cannot be sure, but I hope that they are all treated fairly. I do what I can in life but also have to consider the financial safety of my own family, and this trip was frivolous enough.